face it foto

Basil Rodericks Headshot Photography
JUST DO IT DOTTIE!
John Thomas Fischer, composer, rolled into FIF Studio a mere 4 hours before curtain. He was a bit giddy from the reviews of his new off-B’way show, Til Death Do Us Part. A musician by profession, John does double-duty, also playing Dottie, the lonely-hearts columnist narrator.
The acting, other than improv back in school, is new. Done got himself bitten. John’s now interested playing more cut-up, comic, hairpin-triggered characters. Moderators & Narrators to be precise. A dream would be a talk show!
We did a range of shots to brand the quick wit in a contemporized vein of his heroic icon, Dick Cavett. I say go for it piano man!


HUFFINGTON POST!
NY TIMES
TICKETS!

JUST DO IT DOTTIE!

John Thomas Fischer, composer, rolled into FIF Studio a mere 4 hours before curtain. He was a bit giddy from the reviews of his new off-B’way show, Til Death Do Us Part. A musician by profession, John does double-duty, also playing Dottie, the lonely-hearts columnist narrator.

The acting, other than improv back in school, is new. Done got himself bitten. John’s now interested playing more cut-up, comic, hairpin-triggered characters. Moderators & Narrators to be precise. A dream would be a talk show!

We did a range of shots to brand the quick wit in a contemporized vein of his heroic icon, Dick Cavett. I say go for it piano man!

HUFFINGTON POST!

NY TIMES

TICKETS!

We are not sure if we are ready to add ethnicity into the brand.

MAKEUPArtist.Tara Zielenski.

Tara collaborated with me on the CAMERAskin Series. She is one of the two fabulously talented makeup artists I work with who understand the nuance of creating great actor headshots.

I asked Tara what she’s carrying in her bag & what would should be as an on-the-go actor:
WATERPROOF EYELINER. Choose a color that most makes your eyes pop (Green Eyes : purples and plums, Brown Eyes : navy, royal & sapphire blues,  Blue Eyes : chestnuts, deep browns). Dancers or performers needing a super dramatic look should try super black (my fav and really changes the name of the game)! recommend Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream/$23.”expensive but worth it”.
TINTED LIP BALM.  Perfect for actor head shots requiring a more natural mouth and dramatic eyes. Match the tint to whatever you’re auditioning for; funny may go a bit orange or red, professional may be cooler with taupes, more romantic, the berry family. Also it’s a great alternative to traditional lipstick — leave that heavy, thick feeling behind and get conditioner and skincare benefits! recommend Fresh Tinted Sugar Lip Treatments/$22. “expensive but worth it”.
MAKEUP SETTING/FIXING SPRAY. THIS IS A MUST IN YOUR BAG! Do not  cake on more complexion products (looks bad, old, and clogs pores)! Fixatives are great for a long day of auditioning.  One or two spritzes will re-set your morning makeup and make it look extremely fresh!  Keep healthy, youthful dewy skin. recommend Repechage/$15. “perfect product.. perfect price!”
UNDER EYE BRIGHTENERS. Can’t leave home without them!  You’ll always find one in my bag.  They’re loaded with light reflecting pigments to blur any imperfections under the eye. Color correctives are great, ie., salmon tone to counteract tired blue and purple dark circles.  Quick pick me ups.  No one will ever known you’re on a 3rd audition and 3 hrs of sleep! recommend YSL Touche E’Clat/$40. "EXPENSIVE BUT WORTH IT… best on the market!"
WATERPROOF FULL COVERAGE CONCEALER. Great for quick fixes and retain a natural look — no pancake face here.  A little usually goes a long way, is seamless and the longevity is incredible!  One of the most versatile products I know. (Tip : on the go you can use as your foundation if mixed with a primer or moisturizer). recommend Make Up For Ever Full Cover/$32. "expensive but worth it…a little goes a long way!"
see also —
CAMERAskin Series

MAKEUPArtist.Tara Zielenski.

Tara collaborated with me on the CAMERAskin Series. She is one of the two fabulously talented makeup artists I work with who understand the nuance of creating great actor headshots.

I asked Tara what she’s carrying in her bag & what would should be as an on-the-go actor:

  1. WATERPROOF EYELINER. Choose a color that most makes your eyes pop (Green Eyes : purples and plums, Brown Eyes : navy, royal & sapphire blues,  Blue Eyes : chestnuts, deep browns). Dancers or performers needing a super dramatic look should try super black (my fav and really changes the name of the game)! recommend Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream/$23.”expensive but worth it”.
  2. TINTED LIP BALM.  Perfect for actor head shots requiring a more natural mouth and dramatic eyes. Match the tint to whatever you’re auditioning for; funny may go a bit orange or red, professional may be cooler with taupes, more romantic, the berry family. Also it’s a great alternative to traditional lipstick — leave that heavy, thick feeling behind and get conditioner and skincare benefits! recommend Fresh Tinted Sugar Lip Treatments/$22. “expensive but worth it”.
  3. MAKEUP SETTING/FIXING SPRAY. THIS IS A MUST IN YOUR BAG! Do not  cake on more complexion products (looks bad, old, and clogs pores)! Fixatives are great for a long day of auditioning.  One or two spritzes will re-set your morning makeup and make it look extremely fresh!  Keep healthy, youthful dewy skin. recommend Repechage/$15. “perfect product.. perfect price!”
  4. UNDER EYE BRIGHTENERS. Can’t leave home without them!  You’ll always find one in my bag.  They’re loaded with light reflecting pigments to blur any imperfections under the eye. Color correctives are great, ie., salmon tone to counteract tired blue and purple dark circles.  Quick pick me ups.  No one will ever known you’re on a 3rd audition and 3 hrs of sleep! recommend YSL Touche E’Clat/$40. "EXPENSIVE BUT WORTH IT… best on the market!"
  5. WATERPROOF FULL COVERAGE CONCEALER. Great for quick fixes and retain a natural look — no pancake face here.  A little usually goes a long way, is seamless and the longevity is incredible!  One of the most versatile products I know. (Tip : on the go you can use as your foundation if mixed with a primer or moisturizer). recommend Make Up For Ever Full Cover/$32. "expensive but worth it…a little goes a long way!"

see also —

CAMERAskin Series

CAMERAskin pt 6. The Thing about Dudes.

NATURAL ≠ NO MAKEUP You can get a cleaner, more natural looking, sharper headshot with makeup than au natural. I promise.

Here’s why;

Headshot will always be a retouched; imperfections obscuring the actor’s product are removed & the power of the eyes enhanced.

When I RETOUCH, one or a combination of the following happens : 

a. an area of great skin is taken & placed over blemish

b.  area is lightened

c. color removed/changed  (i.e. pink removed from blemish)

REALISM depends on;

a. how close in proximity great skin is to the imperfection 

b. how large the area to be replaced

c. how much manipulation of the color and tone

Now, LOOK AT THE FOLLOWING;

  1. Maggie Without Makeup. There are few areas of skin to cover imperfections. Covering her imperfections would require taking skin from longer distances and a lot of color & tone manipulation.
  2. Maggie & Makeup.  Your eyes no longer focus on discoloration but the power of Maggie’s eyes.
  3. Maggie Retouch. The amount of manipulation was minimal. While the powder is diffusive, foundation is reflective, giving her skin pop the illusion of a sharper image.

So all you GUYS who seem seem to believe barefaced is the best way to go into your shoot, remember remember remember : the camera only picks up lines & excess color! (Maggie’s blush, shadow and mascara). Concealer, foundation & powder simply read as skin. For guys, I recommend a minimal amount of corrective concealer & powder  essential for CAMERAskin.

see other CAMERAskin entries —

CAMERAskin1 (intro)

CAMERAskin2 (foundation)

CAMERAskin3 (eyes)

CAMERAskin4 (lips)

CAMERAskin5 (finale)

CAMERAskin6 (retouch/dudes)

CAMERAskin pt 5. The finale.

The finale!  Maggie’s natural looking commercial image. Keep in mind, in person, Maggie does not have remarkable skin. But, the camera always allows for the study of nuance, for the good and the bad. Every emotion, hair & pore. 

Here some thoughts about makeup, a natural look & “camera skin” from a photographer’s perspective—

  1. Cover All. The camera has a remarkably hard time distinguishing powder/foundation if all skin, neck, ears, hands are covered.
  2. Blend. Lines & Colors tell on you. Still images allow the eye to take in straight lines. The further away from shades of neutral pinks and browns, the straighter the lines, the more “dramatic” the look. The more neutral and blended, the more “natural”.
  3. Check Distance. The greater distance from the camera, the more dramatic your lines  (eyes, eyebrows) can be and still read natural.

Stay tuned, we’ll  talk about the magic — the retouch — and why makeup can lend to a better natural look image than a bare face. We’ll also meet Tara and find out what’s in her… bag!

see also —

CAMERAskin1 (intro)

CAMERAskin2 (foundation)

CAMERAskin3 (eyes)

CAMERAskin4 (lips)

CAMERAskin6 (retouch/dudes)

CAMERAskin pt4. Mouth.

We’ve been working towards an “elevated natural you” for a commercial image. Here’s how Tara creates a natural lip —

We are going to work with the natural hue of Maggie’s lip. We’ll lightly define it with a pencil, this case a tone deeper than her skintone, and finish with a modest gloss. When you create a natural look keep the following in mind :

Distance. For a close up, consider sheer, for a long shot go heavier and use a lip pencil for more definition.

Tint. Stick closely with the color of your lip but mix in cooler tones (taupes, blues) if you’re a cool character, warmer (reds, oranges) when that’s your part, reds if you’re hot, violets if you’re casting romantic.

Gloss. Shine connotes youthfulness, playfulness. Add shine to get these characteristics. Though too much enters fashion territory, remember shine can be dulled down in the retouch but can’t be added, so err on the side of more shine!

Next, we finish with Maggie’s astounding before and after. You’ll also meet Tara, talk products and see what she carries as “musts” in her bag. 

CAMERAskin pt 3. Eyes.

We’ve been working towards an “elevated natural you” for a commercial image. Here’s how Tara works brows —

Previously. I laid Maggie’s foundation and evened her skin.  I then used a pinkish cream blush on apples to keep a fresh, commercial look. I blended to that a very sheer highlighter to give further dimension. (Basil tends to photograph straight on an so I tend to use less color on the front and more to the sides of the apples).

Eyes. A good strategy for a natural look? Use contrasts. In this case, I use taupe tones and cool colors to contrast the warm tones in Maggie’s beautiful browns. A minimal amount of makeup is used to get a great effect which will help to read “natural”. Waterproof gel liner to finish the definition and framing

Brows. Superimportant. Basil always says “The character is in the brows”.  They frame your most important feature and define your image. They’re a big clue to who you are.

We’re going for a versatile commercial look, so Maggie’s thickness and arch are perfect to convention. To amplify I use a chestnut brow powder. Pencils can  fill gaps and volumize. Use a great quality brow brush to blend and gel to thicken and set.

Next Tara moves onto a natural look for Maggie’s mouth, and we finish with an astounding before and after. You’ll also meet Tara, talk products and see what she carries as “musts” in her bag. Stay tuned.

CAMERAskin pt 2. Foundation.

We’re working towards an “elevated natural you” for a commercial image. Here’s how Tara begins

  • PRIMER. To make skin look as healthy and natural as possible, and retain longetivity with the makeup, Maggie was prepped with a moisture primer.
  • CORRECTIVE CONCEALER. All skin irregularities are then color corrected with concealer. Color correction is worth knowing. The camera picks up pinks/magentas which can become conspicuous. People normally have pink rimmed eyelids, nostrils and some skin irritations — a green-tint concealer normalizes for the camera. Corrections can also be within the same tone for dark spots, or bags. Ok, Tara, proceed!
  • FOUNDATION. Maggie’s skin tone was then evened with a medium coverage foundation starting in the center of her face and buffed outwards.
  • T ZONE POWDER.  A shiny nose is an easy retouch but too much shine in the much larger surface of the T-Zone requires retouching. Retouching the large areas of the forehead and areas around the nose interfere with the realism of the photo, and there goes our “natural look”. So, set the T Zone with a light translucent powder to counteract any shine or unnecessary shine the camera may pick up. 

Next Tara will talk move on to the eyes, we’ll se a before and after and Tara will talk about the products and what’s in her personal makeup bag.

Previously

CAMERASKINCreating A Natural Look pt. 1

CAMERAskin pt1. Creating A Natural Commercial Look.

Can I do my own makeup?  I’m not sure about the whole Mac thing ‘cause don’t they only do drag queens?

—Actor after learning one of my makeup artists spent several years @ Mac  

Who knows why salespeople at Sephora and Mac live by “more is less” looking like fugitives from a Jackson Pollack murder. On the contrary, the legions of MUA’s I encounter during Fashion Week, and the two I work with, Marialena Gimapino and Tara Zielenski, look like people. They will not scare you. And they know things. They know a lot about how makeup and skin work with lighting and the camera. The first time I heard Pat McGrath say “new skin”, I was like “Silence of the Lambs!”.  But that’s a good & precise way to think. I now think of makeup as “Camera Skin”. 

Actors want realism, a natural look. My routine and more challenging task is conveying that what reads as natural in person, may not translate as flatteringly on film unless precisely defined. Subtle pigment changes you’ve never noticed may take on the appearance of a vintage relief map, every hair flying away will be noted as an infidel! 

Maggie is a perfect example of my point, she’s absolutely typical. In person you’d agree she’s not just pretty, but very pretty. You would not notice heavier pigmentation around her eyes or “combination skin”.  That’s not very apparent in person in room light. We’ll put Tara on the case and get Maggie ready for the camera to create an effortless-looking natural look. And you’ll learn, even with significant problems, “more” is not the answer, it’s using the right tools.

Stay tuned to this series and watch Tara Zielenski, one of the two superbly talented makeup artists I work with, create an elevated, natural look that works commercially.

CAMERAskin2 (foundation)

CAMERAskin3 (eyes)

CAMERAskin4 (lips)

CAMERAskin5 (finale)

CAMERAskin6 (retouch/dudes)

 

staff:

We’re up to 170 million blogs. Whatever, nbd. But the bigger we get, the more government requests for account data we receive. And since there may be a day when it’s your information they want, it’s important you know what they’re asking for.
Starting today, we’ll be publishing a biannual Transparency Report detailing the number of requests we get from different sources, why we receive those requests, and how we respond to them.
If the report is TL;DR, here’s the upshot: Tumblr received a total of 462 requests for user data in 2013, and responded with account data (e.g., email and IP address) 76% of the time. A small subset of those responses also included content of blog posts (e.g., text, audio, images, or video).
The remaining requests (24%) were illegal, vague, or inaccurate—so we refused to provide any data at all.
Striking the right balance between privacy and legal responsibilities is no small task, but we hope this report demonstrates our ongoing commitment to this community.

staff:

We’re up to 170 million blogs. Whatever, nbd. But the bigger we get, the more government requests for account data we receive. And since there may be a day when it’s your information they want, it’s important you know what they’re asking for.

Starting today, we’ll be publishing a biannual Transparency Report detailing the number of requests we get from different sources, why we receive those requests, and how we respond to them.

If the report is TL;DR, here’s the upshot: Tumblr received a total of 462 requests for user data in 2013, and responded with account data (e.g., email and IP address) 76% of the time. A small subset of those responses also included content of blog posts (e.g., text, audio, images, or video).

The remaining requests (24%) were illegal, vague, or inaccurate—so we refused to provide any data at all.

Striking the right balance between privacy and legal responsibilities is no small task, but we hope this report demonstrates our ongoing commitment to this community.